After my love for Fighting Games has been re-kindled a few weeks ago, it was clear that I need a Fightstick again. My old Dreamcast Arcade Stick was so messed up that I looked around for a new model. The choice fell on the Nacon Daija, which I bought for less than 140 Euros thanks to a Cyber-Black-Friday-Thingy offer. The Fightstick is very well built, high weight, easy to open, swappable artwork, rubberized bottom and original Sanwa components. But of course there is also something to complain about: You can’t deactivate the buttons on the right side of the stick. It doesn’t bother you as much while playing, but if you want to put the stick on the table, you can easily activate the buttons. The cable is with it’s 3 meters very long but sadly it is hard wired and can’t be replaced. The last problem is the electronics itself, which according to some tests (Reddit link) has a considerable lag problem. Personally I couldn’t really feel it on my PC, but when you know it’s there… 🙄 I wanted to use the Daija with an adapter on my switch. That would have meant additional delay again so I decided to do the conversion described here.
- Brook Universal Fighting Board
- Neutrik NAUSB-W
- Rocker switch
- 3mm Stainless steel nuts and bolts
- 4,5m USB-B Cable
- Self-adhesive velcro tape
- Epoxy glue
- Step drill (24mm)
- Wires, cable ties, etc.
The first thing I did was to find a suitable place for the additional switch. The optimal position for me is the notch where the audio jack is normally located, because the Brook PCB can’t do audio anyway and the switch can’t be operated by accident. I drew the needed cutout with maskingtape and then cut it out with a small cutting disc on my Dremel.
And since I’m already changing the case I installed the Neutrik USB port with the help of a step drill, nuts and bolts and some epoxy at the cable entry.During this mod some other plastic parts have been worked on, but I will not go into this in this post, because it was neither interesting nor complex.
Now we come to the exciting part: I measured the assignment of the side buttons with the help of a continuity tester. Protip: The description on the original PCB is wrong.
From the side control elements all push buttons remain usable after the mod. The sliders are unfortunately connected with a different logic than the Universal Fighting Board, but all functions remain as shortcuts provided by the UFB. The touchpad has no function after the mod. I think this is acceptable, I don’t know any fighting game where it is needed… 😉
The Universal Fighting Board is simply attached with self-adhesive Velcro tape, so I can easily remove it again if I have to. I extended the required wires of the ribbon cable and connected the newly installed switch in series with GND. I could luckily hide the whole cable tangle under the plastic cover. On the pictures you can still see that I first connected all controls to the headers with the „Fighting Board Cable“ which was quite tight when closing the case. In the end I used the screw terminal, so save your money.
With the help of the old audio line I was able to extend the flat cable of the LED and even had the suitable plug for the Brook PCB. Please note that the Brook PCB uses the RGB LED like 3 separate LEDs and therefore does not mix colors. As a result, the game 4 does not turn on any LED. For the first three players the LED lights up: blue, red, green. The last step was to connect a USB cable to the headers and update the firmware of the UFB. I hope I can help some of you with this post. 🙂